## The Sophomore Season Paris Fashion Week AW2026 was defined by second acts. Jonathan Anderson showed his sophomore womenswear collection for Dior inside a glass greenhouse built around an artificial pond scattered with water lilies — a set inspired by Monet and the Parisian tradition of promenading. The collection centered on 'seeing and being seen': Belle Époque ruffles transformed into mini dresses, the Bar jacket loosened into pastel knits with fluted peplums, and heritage tweeds reimagined with rippling hems. Matthieu Blazy returned with his second Chanel ready-to-wear collection at the Grand Palais, where the set resembled a playful construction site with oversized colorful cranes and a glittering floor. The translation: Chanel's historic codes made lighter, more fluid, less precious. Miu Miu closed the week as the final power move. Gillian Anderson, Chloë Sevigny, Gemma Ward, and Kristen McMenamy walked a grass-carpeted runway inside the Art Deco Palais d'Iéna, surrounded by faux-fur-lined seats and a scenography that turned the palazzo into a wild indoor forest. ## The Architecture of Fashion The real story this season was the sets. Dior's greenhouse, Chanel's construction playground, Miu Miu's palazzo-forest, Hermès at the Garde Républicaine beneath a dusky sky, Pierre Cardin projecting surreal Venetian imagery inside their flagship across from the Élysée Palace — every major house treated the runway as installation art. The collection is what you wear. The set is what you remember. The season proved that heritage houses are at their most interesting when new creative directors stop reverencing the archive and start arguing with it. Anderson's Dior doesn't look like Dior. Blazy's Chanel doesn't look like Chanel. That's the point.
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The sophomore season: Anderson's Dior in a Monet greenhouse, Blazy's Chanel on a glittering construction site, Miu Miu's palazzo-forest with Sevigny and McMenamy. Every major house treated the runway as installation art. The sets were the story.